Waterberg Wonderland - South Africa wildlife - by Ron Toft

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Waterberg game reserve in South Africa.

Waterberg Wonderland
New reserve has become major ecotourism attraction

by Ron Toft
· personal page ·

It was barely 5am, but already the South African bush was alive with the whistles, warbles, screeches, screams and other noises of myriad creatures going about their daily business.

Above me, on the thatched roof of my all-mod-cons lodge on the five-star Ka’Ingo Private Game Reserve & Spa near Vaalwater in the malaria-free Waterberg area of Limpopo Province, I could hear the pitter-patter of tiny feet as dainty vervet monkeys chased and played with one another in the early morning light.

A drab hadeda ibis raucously announced its arrival on the lawn outside and immediately began probing the turf with its decurved bill for grubs.

. . . . .

As I opened the door of my lodge and savoured the freshness and fragrance of another glorious summer’s day, a stunningly beautiful woodland kingfisher flew into a nearby tree, eyeing me warily as it did so.

Bright yellow village or spotted-backed weavers sallied back and forth carrying freshly torn strips of vegetation for their intricately woven cup-like nests.

In the distance, the throaty, primeval roar of a lion could be heard.

. . . . .

Wildlife-rich Ka’Ingo is part of the 16,000-hectare Greater Mokolo Nature Reserve created in July 2009 when the shared boundary fences between Ka’Ingo and Mokolo River Nature Reserve were taken down to promote greater biodiversity. For the first time in many years, animals now have unfettered access to the six-kilometre Mokolo River corridor and surrounding plains.

It is hoped that this ground-breaking conservation initiative – driven by Nick Callichy, Ka’Ingo’s general manager, and Heidi Baer, who is renowned for her work with orphaned elephants and other creatures on the neighbouring Mokolo River Nature Reserve - will encourage other landowners in the Waterberg area also to remove their fences, making the new reserve even bigger.

Greater Mokolo is itself part of the UNESCO-designated Waterberg Biosphere Reserve – one of 553 such reserves in 107 countries. Renowned conservationist Clive Walker, who was present at the official launch of Greater Mokolo, predicted some years ago that the Waterberg would become “one of the most important and significant conservation areas in South Africa.” Although most big game animals were wiped out by the turn of the last century, “conservation has seen the return of the elephant, buffalo, rhino, hippo, lion and all major species of antelope.” The challenge now is to “create a conservation area of international importance to the benefit of both environment and Man.”

According to Ka’Ingo, Greater Mokolo is arguably South Africa’s most secluded, privately owned reserve accessible to the public. What’s more, it boasts 3,000 hectares of pristine bushveld per wildlife visitor. Among the 40-plus game species on the reserve are lion, elephant, buffalo, white rhino, leopard, cheetah, giraffe, zebra, greater kudu and giraffe.

Ka’Ingo offers tourists a variety of experiences and activities, including day and night game drives, bush walks, river safaris, wine tasting sessions, picnics and rock art tours.

Recognising that not all guests want to do the same things, Ka’Ingo has developed what it calls “a novel pricing policy,” allowing visitors “to create their own unique game reserve holiday.” If they wish, guests can rent a room, then pay according to the “experience and consumables” they actually use.

. . . . .

One popular optional extra – especially welcome after a hot and dusty game drive or tiring bush walk - is a Zorgvliet Bush Spa treatment, such as a Queen of Kilimanjaro body mud wrap, a rolling thunder massage and a Cabernet Sauvignon anti-ageing facial.

During my two visits to Ka’Ingo, I sampled most of what is on offer – early morning, late afternoon and night game drives, a ranger-led bush walk, a river safari in a small, flat-bottomed boat, a guided tour of an ancient rock art site and birdwatching.

My most enjoyable and adrenaline-pumping experience was a rhino bush walk with senior ranger Bruce Talbot. As we drove along a dusty red track in the Tambotie Pan area of the reserve, suddenly I glimpsed one, then two, white rhino deep within the bush.

After backing up the vehicle to get a better view through the scrubby thicket, Bruce turned off the engine. For several minutes, we just sat and watched these mighty, unpredictable beasts. Satisfied we didn’t pose a threat, the rhinos soon lost interest in us and continued ambling slowly through the bush, tucking into whatever took their fancy.

“We’ll drive back the way we came, then circle around the rhino on foot in the hope of getting a better look at them,” said Bruce. We drove a mile or more before Bruce pulled over to the side of the track and got out, his rifle slung over his shoulder. It was vital, he said, that I stayed right behind him, made as little noise as possible and followed his instructions immediately and without question.

Although we were downwind of the rhinos, Bruce stressed the importance of being alert at all times, as there could easily be lions, elephants, cheetahs, leopards and other potentially dangerous animals lurking in the bush.

. . . . .

During the walk, we encountered a variety of wildlife, including a jittery warthog, two leopard tortoises trundling through the grass like miniature tanks, wildebeest, impala and assorted birds.

Eventually, we spotted a prominent tree we had noted the position of while in the Land Rover. “The rhinos could be literally anywhere around here,” Bruce told me.

Extra vigilance was now called for. For many minutes, not a word passed between us, as we listened and looked for the slightest indication that the rhinos were close by. When Bruce’s eagle eyes finally spotted the duo, they were lying down in the bush, their ever-twitching large ears rotating like radar dishes.

After watching the rhinos for a while, we withdrew slowly and quietly, leaving the leviathans to their slumbers. “That’s how all bush walks should be,” Bruce remarked. “To see animals well without disturbing them – without them realising you are just a short distance away watching them.”

. . . . .

Other memorable experiences included spotting a well-concealed Nile crocodile while paddling along the Mokolo, finding a new home for a venomous shield cobra that turned up in Ka’Ingo’s reception area one evening, getting up-close-and-personal with an anaesthetised male lion and keeping a safe distance from an irascible buffalo named Victor after grumpy Victor Meldrew in the One Foot In The Grave TV sitcom.

When the fences were formally cut to create Greater Mokolo Nature Reserve, Mac van der Merwe, chief executive of the Zorgvliet Group, of which Ka’Ingo is part, told VIPs and other guests:

“Conservation is of the utmost importance, but if we can’t bring conservation and commercial viability together, in five years we will look back and say it’s been in vain. Taking it forward is a big challenge, and I urge you to assist us with making it known that we are opening doors and want more international visitors, as well as South Africans, to appreciate what is happening here.

“This is not the end but just the beginning of something really big in the Waterberg.”

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KA'INGO NOTES
Ka’Ingo Private Reserve & Spa is about 200 km north of Pretoria and 35 km north-west of Vaalwater. It has 12 en-suite, air-conditioned thatched lodges and a capacity of 24 guests at any given time. A grassed landing strip is also available. www.kaingo.co.za

WORLD CUP
Ka’Ingo is not far from Polokwane – one of nine South African cities hosting the 2010 FIFA World Cup. The four football matches to be played at Polokwane’s Peter Mokaba Stadium are: Algeria v Slovenia (13 June), France v Mexico (17 June), Greece v Argentina (22 June) and Paraguay v New Zealand (24 June).

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